"If you know these things, blessed are you if you do them."
On Thursday, we traveled to Titanyen, a village about 20
miles northwest of Port-au-Prince. Our
guide explained that Titanyen is a Creole word meaning “less than
nothing.” It aptly describes the
circumstances of many of the villagers. We
visited the homes of five elders who are cared for by Grace Village. They are provided food and regular health
checks.
At the second stop, the one room shack could not accommodate
all 14 of us, so I chose to stay outside, relieved I wouldn’t have to bear the
stifling heat within the walls of this elderly man’s home. I slid down against the mud wall, sweat
trickling down my sides, making my t-shirt cling to me. Sitting on the dirt ground, it was easier to
put my arm around the little girl who had shadowed me from the tap-tap to the
house. As I sat there, thinking nothing
in particular, around the corner struts a little girl in a black polka-dotted
dress. She very deliberately marched
over to me and stared intently at me. As
I stared back, I could see my reflection in her eyes and she, no doubt, could
see her own reflection in my sunglasses.
I took my glasses off and continued to stare. Again, I saw my reflection in her intensely beautiful
liquid brown eyes. I thought about how
we are each reflected in the eyes of those around us, in the eyes of those who
know us best.
She inched closer to me and let me hug her. In Creole, I tried to ask her name, but she
only stared back at me. Minutes passed
and she seemed content to just stare at me and I was content to just stare
back. Others noticed the attention. Someone snapped a photo. Soon, people started to file out of the house
and I knew soon it would be time to leave.
I reluctantly followed the line of people back to the tap tap. The driver told me to put her down and I did
so. I will never know her name and I will never see her again. Each of us have experienced this kind of encounter
in Haiti; surprisingly intimate, completely unexpected, and painfully brief.
Our fourth stop was at the home of Edmond, an 81-year-old,
blind, partially deaf man. He lives
alone in a mud shack, barely big enough to fit a small cot, a table, and a few
personal belongings. There were two
holes in the walls, near the roof of corrugated metal. The “windows” were not large enough to allow
even a small breeze.
Our team waited outside while Edmond ate the bananas and
sandwiches we brought for him. No grass
grew in the yard. There was only
dirt. Two large pigs, and several
piglets, one looking very sickly, wallowed in a mud hole under a tree which
provided the only shade. Chickens pecked at the dirt. Dogs with their hip bones protruding from
underneath their skin wandered the grounds searching for scraps.
Our team was there to wash and massage Edmond. I had managed to avoid this task on our three
prior stops, but I felt a pull and volunteered.
Jonas, our translator, had taught us the Creole version of “Glory to God”
on the journey over. A chorus of “Glwa
Pou Bondye” now enveloped us, as four of us began to wash Edmond’s arms and
legs with baby wipes, the sweat from my forehead, stinging my eyes. As I sat
on the dirt floor of his cramped and airless shack, I looked up into his
sightless eyes and saw a look of utter joy and gratitude. As we continued to massage Edmond, it occurred
to me, that he was the one performing an act of service for us. This blind and deaf man had welcomed us,
strangers, foreigners, into his home. In
trusting us he had made himself vulnerable.
At that moment, the presence of the one who had made himself vulnerable
for all mankind filled the room. Complete
contentment washed over me and I began to tremble. I have never felt more alive than at that
moment. Glwa pou Bondye pou tu jou!